Your pillow works the night shift. It catches drool, sweat, skincare leftovers, and whatever that “mysterious
midnight snack crumb situation” is. The good news: most down, feather, and synthetic pillows can
be washed right in your washing machineno hazmat suit required. The not-so-good news: washing pillows the wrong
way can turn them into sad, soggy pancakes.
This guide walks you through a simple 12-step method to machine-wash pillows safely, get them
fully dry (the most important part), and keep them fluffy, fresh, and not weirdly lumpy. We’ll also cover which
pillows should not go in the washer, plus real-world lessons people learn after their first “pillow laundry
adventure.”
Before You Start: Know What You’re Washing
Machine-washable pillows (usually)
- Down and feather pillows
- Polyester, microfiber, and fiberfill pillows
- Cotton-filled pillows (if the care label allows)
Pillows you should NOT machine-wash (most of the time)
- Solid memory foam pillows
- Latex foam pillows
Foam pillows can tear, break down, or trap water inside the core when agitated in a washer. If your pillow is
foam, follow the care labeloften it’s spot-clean only, or a removable cover can be washed while the foam insert
is not.
What You’ll Need
- Mild liquid detergent (use less than a normal load)
- Stain remover (enzyme-based is helpful for body oils)
- Optional: white vinegar (for odor help)
- Two dryer balls or clean tennis balls (for fluffing in the dryer)
- Clean pillow protectors (highly recommended for the future)
How to Wash a Pillow in the Washing Machine: 12 Steps
-
Step 1: Read the care label like it’s the plot twist.
The tag tells you the safest water temperature, whether bleach is allowed, and how to dry it. If the label says
“do not wash,” believe it. If it’s missing, treat the pillow gently (warm or cool water, mild detergent, gentle
cycle) and avoid harsh chemicals. -
Step 2: Identify the fill (down, feather, synthetic, or foam).
This matters because fill type affects detergent amount, rinse needs, and drying time. Down and feathers wash
well but require thorough drying to prevent funky odors and clumping. Synthetics are usually easier and dry
faster. Solid foam generally shouldn’t go in the washer. -
Step 3: Check seams and repair small tears first.
If there’s a rip, the wash can turn your pillow into a confetti cannon of fluff. Sew up weak seams or tiny holes
before washing. Even a small opening can widen during agitation and spinning. -
Step 4: Remove pillowcases and protectors (wash those too).
Pillowcases and protectors should be washed regularly. A protector acts like a “raincoat” for your pillow,
reducing sweat and oil buildup in the fill. Wash them separately or toss them in with sheetsjust don’t wrap
them around the pillows like a burrito. -
Step 5: Pretreat stains (yes, even the yellow ones).
Look for makeup, sweat marks, drool zones (no judgment), or oil spots. Dab stain remover or a small amount of
detergent onto stains, gently work it in, and let it sit about 10–15 minutes. Pretreating is the difference
between “fresh” and “I guess it’s cleaner… spiritually.” -
Step 6: Load two pillows at a time to balance the washer.
Washing two pillows helps balance the drum so the machine can spin properly. If you only wash one pillow, it can
thump around like a sneaker in a dryer. If your washer is small, wash one at a timebut add a couple towels to
help balance (as long as you’re not overstuffing the machine). -
Step 7: Choose the right cycle: gentle (or bulky if your machine recommends it).
Pick a gentle/delicate or bulky cycle with a high water level if possible. The
goal is good circulation without aggressive agitation that can warp shape and stress seams. -
Step 8: Select water temperature based on the label (warm is common).
Many pillows do well in warm water, but always follow the care tag. Hotter water can be helpful
for deep cleaning, but it may shrink covers, damage some fills, or set certain stains. When unsure, warm is a
safe middle ground for most machine-washable pillows. -
Step 9: Use a small amount of mild detergent (skip fabric softener).
Pillows are thick and hold onto soap. Too much detergent can stay trapped inside the fill, causing stiffness,
residue, or clumpingespecially with down. Use less than a normal load. Avoid fabric softener,
which can coat fibers and reduce loft. -
Step 10: Add an extra rinse (or run a second rinse cycle).
This is the “don’t skip leg day” step of pillow washing. An extra rinse helps flush out trapped detergent so the
fill stays fluffy instead of sticky. If your washer has an extra rinse option, use it. If not, run a rinse/spin
cycle afterward. -
Step 11: Spin thoroughly, then transfer to the dryer promptly.
A solid spin removes more water and shortens drying time. Once the wash is done, don’t let pillows sit wet in
the washerthis is how musty odors and mildew vibes are born. Move them to the dryer right away. -
Step 12: Dry on low (or air/fluff), using dryer ballsand don’t stop until they’re fully dry.
Drying is the most important part. Use low heat for many synthetics and follow the label for
down/feather (often low heat or air-fluff). Add dryer balls or clean tennis balls to keep pillows moving and
help break up clumps. Pause the dryer periodically to fluff and rotate pillows by hand.How to know it’s truly dry: squeeze the center and edges. If you feel coolness or dampness
anywhere, it needs more time. A pillow that’s “mostly dry” can still develop odor or mildew inside later.
Quick Troubleshooting (Because Pillows Like Drama)
If your pillow is lumpy after washing
- It may still have soap residue: run another rinse/spin.
- It may not be fully dry: continue drying with dryer balls and fluff breaks.
- Down/feather clumps often break up as drying finishespatience helps.
If your pillow smells “off” after drying
- It’s almost always leftover moisture trapped inside.
- Dry longer on low/air and re-fluff every 20–30 minutes.
- Next time, use less detergent and add an extra rinse.
If your washer is a top-loader with a center agitator
Agitators can be rough on bulky items. Use the gentlest cycle available and consider a laundromat front-loader for
expensive pillows you’d rather not gamble with.
How Often Should You Wash Pillows?
A practical target for many households is every 3–6 months. If you have allergies, sweat heavily,
share a bed with pets, or snack in bed like it’s a hobby, washing more often can help. Using a quality pillow
protector can extend the time between full pillow washes and keep pillows whiter longer.
When to Replace a Pillow Instead of Washing It
- It stays flat even after fluffing.
- It has persistent odor after a proper wash and full dry.
- It’s visibly misshapen or has permanent lumps.
- You fold it in half and it doesn’t spring back.
Extra Tips for a Cleaner, Longer-Lasting Pillow
- Use pillow protectors under your pillowcases to block sweat and oils.
- Wash pillowcases weekly (they’re the first line of defense).
- Fluff daily to reduce compaction and help moisture dissipate.
- Keep hair and skincare products in checkthey transfer to fabric faster than you think.
of Real-World “Pillow Washing” Experiences (So You Don’t Learn the Hard Way)
People usually expect washing a pillow to be like washing a sweatshirt: toss it in, hit start, high-five yourself,
move on. Then reality shows up wearing a “bulky item” name tag. Here are the most common experiencesand what they
teach youwhen you wash a pillow in the washing machine for the first time.
1) The “Why is my washer walking?” moment
One pillow alone can throw off the spin cycle and make your washer sound like it’s auditioning for a drumline. That
thumping isn’t just annoyingit can prevent proper spinning, leaving the pillow waterlogged. The fix most people
discover quickly: wash two pillows at once to balance the load, or add a couple towels (without
stuffing the drum). A balanced load spins better, rinses better, and saves you from supervising your laundry like a
nervous lifeguard.
2) The “I used my normal detergent amount… oops” lesson
Pillows are thick, absorbent, and excellent at hiding soap like it’s a secret agent. Using a full cap of detergent
often leads to lingering residue that makes pillows feel stiff or clumpyespecially down. People commonly end up
running extra rinse cycles and wondering why the pillow still feels “slick” inside. Once you switch to a smaller
amount of mild detergent and add an extra rinse, the difference is immediate: cleaner feel, less clumping, and
fewer weird suds coming out during the spin.
3) The “It feels dry on the outside” trap
This is the big one. Pillows can feel dry on the surface while still damp in the core. Many people only realize it
later when the pillow develops a musty smellbecause moisture sat trapped inside the fill. The best habit is the
“deep squeeze test”: press the center and edges firmly. If anything feels cool, heavy, or slightly damp, keep
drying. Dryer balls (or clean tennis balls) help keep the fill moving so it dries evenly and stays fluffy.
4) The “Down clumps are scary… until they aren’t” experience
Down and feather pillows often look worse before they look better. Midway through drying, clumps can form and make
the pillow feel uneven. People sometimes panic and assume they ruined it. But as drying continuesand you pause to
break up clumps by handthe pillow usually rebounds. The key is low heat (or air-fluff if the label calls for it),
time, and a little hands-on fluffing.
5) The “Protectors are cheaper than replacing pillows” realization
After washing a few pillows, many people notice the pattern: pillows stay cleaner longer when a protector is used.
Protectors reduce staining from sweat, skincare, and hair products, and they cut down on allergens trapped in the
fill. The experience is simple: with protectors, pillows look better, smell fresher, and don’t need deep washing as
oftenmaking the whole process less of an event and more of a routine.
Bottom line: washing pillows isn’t hardit’s just a little different from normal laundry. Once you balance the load,
go gentle on detergent, and dry fully (fully means “no cool spots anywhere”), you’ll get pillows that feel cleaner,
fluffier, and more comfortable… and you’ll sleep better knowing you’re not cuddling a year’s worth of mystery grime.
Conclusion
Washing a pillow in the washing machine is totally doable when you follow the care label, use a gentle cycle, go
easy on detergent, rinse thoroughly, andmost importantlydry the pillow completely. Pair that routine with pillow
protectors and regular pillowcase washing, and you’ll keep your sleep setup fresher, more comfortable, and easier to
maintain. Your pillow has supported you through a lot. Returning the favor every few months is only fair.
