Unicorn Spit sounds like something you’d find in a glittery pet store aisle between “dragon tears” and “mermaid salsa,”
but it’s actually a legit craft medium: a thick, highly pigmented gel that can act like paint, stain, or glaze depending on how you use it.
And once you see what it does on wood, you’ll understand why DIYers talk about it like it’s a tiny bottle of “oops, I made it awesome.”
In this guide, we’ll do a complete, step-by-step project (a rainbow “dipped” tray with a glow-up finish),
then I’ll share variations, troubleshooting, and the kind of “I wish someone told me that earlier” experience notes
that make your second Unicorn Spit project even better than your first.
What Is Unicorn Spit (and Why Does It Behave Like Magic)?
Unicorn Spit is commonly described as a paint + gel stain + glaze in one. In plain English:
it’s thick enough to sit on the surface like paint, but it can also be thinned with water so it soaks into porous materials like a stain.
That “choose your own adventure” quality is why it works on a wild list of surfaceswood, glass, metal, fabric, concrete, laminate, and more.
The Big Idea: You Control the Drama with Water
The more you dilute, the more it behaves like a stain or dye. The less you dilute, the more it behaves like paint or a heavy glaze.
The official dilution guidance is basically a color-mixing cheat code:
- 0–10% water: paint / heavy glaze / antiquing / dry brushing
- 10–30% water: light glaze / light whitewash / light antiquing
- 30–50% water: wood stain on bare wood / dye effect over stained surfaces
- 50–70% water: distressed wood stain look on bare wood
- 60–80% water: fabric (and can be thinned more for spraying, depending on method)
Bonus nerdy tip: using distilled or purified water can help keep results more consistent than mineral-heavy water.
(Yes, your sink water might be sabotaging your rainbow. Craft villains are everywhere.)
“Non-Toxic” Doesn’t Mean “Snackable”
You’ll see Unicorn Spit marketed as water-based and non-toxic, and some listings note it conforms to ASTM D-4236.
In the U.S., art materials are subject to labeling and toxicological review standards, but the safest approach is still:
don’t ingest it, avoid contact with eyes and mouth, wash hands after use, and work in a ventilated areaespecially if you’ll be sealing with strong topcoats.
Supplies for Today’s Project
We’re making a Rainbow Dip-Edge Thrift Traya quick project that looks expensive, photographs beautifully,
and doesn’t require a woodworking degree or a personal relationship with a belt sander.
What You’ll Need
- A small wood tray, frame, plaque, or cutting-board-shaped decor piece (thrift store = excellent)
- Unicorn Spit (2–4 colors; one dark shade helps add depth)
- Distilled water in a spray bottle (optional but helpful)
- Foam brush or soft paintbrush, plus a lint-free rag or shop towel
- Fine sandpaper (typically 220 grit) or a sanding sponge
- Cleaner/degreaser (dish soap + water works for many pieces; remove wax/oil build-up if present)
- Painter’s tape (optional, for crisp edges)
- Gloves (optional, but recommended if you like your hands not-the-color-of-your-project)
- A protective topcoat/sealer (more on choosing one below)
Project: Rainbow Dip-Edge Tray (That Looks Like a Boutique Find)
Step 1: Pick Your “Before”
Look for a tray with decent bones: solid wood is ideal, but veneer can work if you sand lightly and don’t go feral.
If the piece already has a finish, that’s okayUnicorn Spit can be used as a glaze over painted or sealed surfaces after proper prep.
Step 2: Prep Like You Mean It
Prep is what separates “Pinterest-worthy” from “why does it look like a sad fruit roll-up?”
Clean off grease, grime, and any waxy residue. Then lightly scuff sand to help adhesion (skip sanding on glass).
Wipe dust away completely.
If your tray is raw or you plan to expose raw wood, sand enough to open the grain and make it evenly absorbent.
The goal is a clean, dull surfacenot a dusty, splintery misery parade.
Step 3: Decide Your Look (Stain vs. Glaze vs. Paint)
For this tray, we’ll do a stain-like dip edge on raw wood. That typically means thinning your Unicorn Spit into the
30–50% water range for stain behavior, or 50–70% if you want a more washed, distressed vibe.
In a small cup, mix a little Unicorn Spit with water. Start conservativeadd water gradually until it flows smoothly off your brush.
You want it fluid enough to soak, but not so watery that it runs like a soap opera.
Step 4: Apply the “Dip” (Without Actually Dipping)
-
Mark your dip line. Use painter’s tape if you want a crisp boundary between “natural wood” and “rainbow.”
If you prefer an ombré fade, skip tape and plan to blend with water. -
Lay down your first color. Brush the thinned mixture along the outer edge of the tray.
Work in manageable sections so it doesn’t dry before you blend. -
Add the second color while it’s still wet. Overlap slightly where the colors meet.
This overlap is where the magic happens: it creates new tones without you having to do math. -
Mist and blend. Lightly spritz with distilled water, then use a brush or rag to soften transitions.
Aim for “sunset gradient,” not “muddy puddle.” -
Repeat with additional colors. Keep your darkest shade toward the underside or corners for depth.
(This is the same design trick makeup artists use: depth makes everything look more expensive.)
Step 5: Add a Little “Extra” (Optional, but Highly Photogenic)
Once your edge is dry to the touch, you can add a thin glaze layer in crevices, corners, or carved details.
Keep this glaze lighter (often in the 10–30% range) so it settles into texture instead of repainting your gradient.
If your tray has handles or hardware, a subtle dark glaze around edges can make it look intentionally aged,
like you bought it from a shop with a name like “The Gilded Acorn.”
Step 6: Let It Dry (Then Judge It Kindly)
Dry time depends on thickness, humidity, and your local weather’s commitment to chaos, but it’s often in the ballpark of
under an hour for thin applications. Don’t panic if it looks a little chalky or muted while dryingsome finishes
“wake up” dramatically once sealed.
Step 7: Seal It (The Step That Makes Colors Pop)
Sealing isn’t always mandatory, but it’s strongly recommended for durability and moisture protection.
A key point from manufacturer guidance: use a non-water-based sealer to avoid reactivating and moving the color.
The look also changes depending on sheen:
- Matte/satin: a flatter, more “modern artisan” finish
- Gloss: more depth and vibrancy
- Epoxy/resin: maximum “deep glassy” 3D effect
Apply thin coats per the sealer’s instructions, and let everything cure fully before heavy use.
If you’re using strong-smelling finishes, work with ventilation and follow the label directions carefully.
Variations: Same Bottle, Totally Different Vibes
1) The “Side-by-Side Rainbow” Technique
Instead of gradients, apply small patches of different colors next to each other, then blend lightly at the seams.
It’s bold, playful, and perfect for drawer fronts, cabinet doors, or any piece you want to look like it’s hosting a party.
2) Chalk-Paint + Unicorn Spit Glaze
Paint your piece a solid base color first (light neutrals are popular), then use Unicorn Spit as a glaze so it settles into details
and adds depth without covering the base. This is great for carved furniture and decorative trim.
3) Glass “Stained Glass” Look
For glass that can’t be sanded, mixing Unicorn Spit with a water-based decoupage medium can help it adhere.
Adjust the ratio for more opaque or more transparent effects, then add durability with a compatible clear coat.
4) Fabric Color Wash
Thinned Unicorn Spit can act like a dye wash on fabric. For anything you plan to wash, use proper fabric-safe methods and sealers
designed for fabric durability, and always let it fully dry and set before laundering.
Troubleshooting: Fixes for the Most Common “Wait, What Happened?” Moments
My colors turned muddy.
Usually this happens from over-blending complementary colors (think red + green) or repeatedly brushing over semi-dry areas.
Fix: let it dry, then glaze a fresh color layer on top rather than trying to “stir” it into obedience.
It’s blotchy on soft wood.
Softwoods can absorb unevenly. Fix: sand evenly, consider a wood conditioner for bare softwood, and use thinner coats.
Building color slowly looks better than trying to one-coat your way into a miracle.
It lifted when I sealed it.
This can happen if the layer wasn’t dry enough or the topcoat reactivated it.
Fix: allow more dry time, and use a non-water-based sealer applied in light coats.
The finish looks dull until sealed.
That’s common. Many people notice a big “pop” after sealingespecially with gloss or resin-type finishes.
Test on the underside first if you’re nervous about sheen.
Safety Notes (Especially If You’re Crafting at Home)
- Work in a ventilated area, especially during sealing steps.
- Wear gloves if you want to avoid stained hands (or lean in and call it “temporary art”).
- Keep craft materials away from food and mouths“non-toxic” is not the same as edible.
- If you’re a teen crafter, it’s smart to have an adult help with sealers, sprays, and anything with strong fumes.
- Read the label and follow all product safety instructions.
Conclusion: Tiny Bottle, Big Personality
Unicorn Spit is one of those rare DIY supplies that rewards both planning and playful chaos.
You can follow a structured method (dilution, layers, blending, sealing) and still end up with a one-of-a-kind finish.
Start smalltrays, frames, drawer frontsthen graduate to furniture once you’ve learned how your favorite colors behave.
And remember: the real “secret technique” is simply controlling water and being patient with dry time.
Bonus: of Experience Notes (What You Learn After “Just One More Project”)
People often expect Unicorn Spit to behave like a regular stain: wipe on, wipe off, done. The first surprise is that it’s closer to a
performance than a product. It changes depending on how wet the surface is, how porous the material is, and how long you let it sit
before blending. Many DIYers end up doing a quick “test patch” ritualusually on the underside of a tray or the back of a framebecause
two pieces of wood can drink color very differently. Once you accept that, your results get dramatically more predictable.
Another common “aha” moment: color intensity is easier to build than to remove. Beginners sometimes squeeze out a lot of product,
then try to blend it into a soft gradient and accidentally create a thick, sticky zone that takes forever to dry. More experienced users
tend to work in thinner passes: a lighter first layer to map the blend, then a second layer only where they want deeper saturation.
That approach also makes it easier to avoid harsh tide lines (those darker edges where wet pigment dries along a boundary).
One of the most talked-about experiences is the “seal reveal.” Before sealing, the finish can look flat, chalky, or slightly muted.
After sealingespecially with glossier finishescolors often look richer and deeper. That shift can feel like a magic trick the first time
you see it. It also explains why experienced crafters choose their sheen based on the vibe: satin for a softer, modern look; gloss or resin
when they want a dramatic, almost “under glass” depth.
Mixing colors becomes addictive fast. People learn that overlapping two shades doesn’t just blendit can create entirely new tones that
look custom. The trick is not overworking it. If you keep brushing after the surface starts to tack up, you risk dragging pigment and
making it cloudy. A gentle mist of water can help extend blending time, but too much water can cause runs or “blooming” where pigment pools.
The sweet spot is usually a fine mist and a light touch: blend, step back, and let the piece do its thing.
Cleanup experiences are also surprisingly positiveespecially compared to traditional solvent-heavy stains. Because the product is water-based,
many users find basic cleanup easier before sealing. But once you start using strong topcoats, the “easy cleanup” story depends on
which finish you chose. That’s why people often separate their workflow: apply Unicorn Spit on a protected surface, clean up with water,
then move to a well-ventilated spot for sealing with the right safety gear. The takeaway most crafters repeat is simple: Unicorn Spit is fun,
forgiving, and wildly versatilebut the best results come when you treat it like an art medium, not just a stain.
